tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7834826019588534175.post8493131423427234367..comments2023-09-20T06:10:29.485-04:00Comments on The Marine Installer's Rant: Radar RxBill Bishop - Parmainhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11554223870035485145noreply@blogger.comBlogger7125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7834826019588534175.post-59441728581029739492017-10-30T14:31:54.000-04:002017-10-30T14:31:54.000-04:00Does anyone know where I can find a vertically pol...Does anyone know where I can find a vertically polarized slotted waveguid x-band antenna? I'm having a lot of trouble finding any. Any help would be appreciated.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02907687263540257936noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7834826019588534175.post-42736112808649430712016-11-07T06:24:58.873-05:002016-11-07T06:24:58.873-05:00Hi Greg, and thanks. As you mentioned there is no ...Hi Greg, and thanks. As you mentioned there is no salt in the air caused by evaporation, but there is salt in the air. This is called sea salt aerosol. Salt in the form of small water particles ends up suspended in the air when waves break or are white capping. In coastal areas the amount of salt in the air can be significant. Bill Bishop - Parmainhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11554223870035485145noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7834826019588534175.post-53811421816194434222016-11-06T17:52:49.256-05:002016-11-06T17:52:49.256-05:00A common misconception is that there is salt in se...A common misconception is that there is salt in sea air which is wholly impossible...as we have all learned in middle school, when salt water evaporates, only distilled water is the result. If a hurricane is blowing over salt water it will indeed pick up the water and blow it on your boat...otherwise there is NO salt in sea air!!Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01030658969548902727noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7834826019588534175.post-67539592248954146782013-12-01T23:07:52.237-05:002013-12-01T23:07:52.237-05:00Hi loved this no-nonsense approach. I am one of th...Hi loved this no-nonsense approach. I am one of the unfortunates who probably needs to do most of what you are talking about here. My Navman 2kw radar stopped working a while ago and I finally got up the nerve to ignore all the "WARNING RADIATION!" signs and open up the dome. It was full of water! And there was a ton of condensation all over the inside of the dome. It did not taste like seawater, so I think your suggestion that it is likely rainwater is correct. I also noticed that the top cover was NOT well (read: tightly) fitted to the rest of the dome, and it seems highly likely that is how the water got in. In fact I cant believe how flimsy the top (4 small bolts and a pretty minimalist foam rubber seal gasket) cover actually is considering the value of what it is protecting. Anyway, any thoughts on what to do? tested it again after removing water, and it is still not working. Is it cooked? Or is it possible that just, say, the drive motor is toasted (array will not turn, but I can see an image on the display - does this mean processor is still working?) Thoughts? Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7834826019588534175.post-48873264529801532922013-09-04T08:47:09.287-04:002013-09-04T08:47:09.287-04:00Thanks Karl, good questions. The radar cable pass ...Thanks Karl, good questions. The radar cable pass through fittings work well if properly tightened down. The radar problems come from two areas. The first is the big gasket. Care has to be taken to make sure it's in the right place when the case is bolted together, or you can fill your radar with rain water. A larger, albeit slower problem is the heating of the day pushes some air out, and the evening cooling sucks some air in that has salt in it. The moisture then condenses on the interior. This is an inexorable process, and the reason I am always exhorting readers to run their radars above and beyond the Rule 7 requirements. The heat generated while operating will help to drive moisture out, and keep parts from freezing up.<br /><br />I haven't personally used the 3M tape product, but I have been on the receiving end of staring at a ball of rubber tape encasing a connection that has over the years in Florida's temperatures coalesced into a amorphous gooey mess.<br /><br />I have also sighed while reaching for a roll of paper towels as I stare at terminal blocks that have been coated 1/8" deep in heavy duty CRC by the infamous mad sprayer dude.<br /><br />I use Boeshield T9 in corrosion prone locations. It works well, holds up for a long time, and doesn't make a big mess. In the end, I think you just have to take things on a case by case basis looking at the potential for exposure, and use your best judement.<br /><br />That being said, there is a season and time for all of these products, you just have to remember that you will have to clean it up someday to make fresh new connections or repairs. A final note, a couple of years ago, I had a client who confused dielectric grease with conductive grease. I explained the difference as I was installing his brand new chart plotter. BillBill Bishop - Parmainhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11554223870035485145noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7834826019588534175.post-10206411700292455122013-09-04T08:46:20.268-04:002013-09-04T08:46:20.268-04:00Thanks Karl, good questions. The radar cable pass ...Thanks Karl, good questions. The radar cable pass through fittings work well if properly tightened down. The radar problems come from two areas. The first is the big gasket. Care has to be taken to make sure it's in the right place when the case is bolted together, or you can fill your radar with rain water. A larger, albeit slower problem is the heating of the day pushes some air out, and the evening cooling sucks some air in that has salt in it. The moisture then condenses on the interior. This is an inexorable process, and the reason I am always exhorting readers to run their radars above and beyond the Rule 7 requirements. The heat generated while operating will help to drive moisture out, and keep parts from freezing up.<br /><br />I haven't personally used the 3M tape product, but I have been on the receiving end of staring at a ball of rubber tape encasing a connection that has over the years in Florida's temperatures coalesced into a amorphous gooey mess.<br /><br />I have also sighed while reaching for a roll of paper towels as I stare at terminal blocks that have been coated 1/8" deep in heavy duty CRC by the infamous mad sprayer dude.<br /><br />I use Boeshield T9 in corrosion prone locations. It works well, holds up for a long time, and doesn't make a big mess. In the end, I think you just have to take things on a case by case basis looking at the potential for exposure, and use your best judement.<br /><br />That being said, there is a season and time for all of these products, you just have to remember that you will have to clean it up someday to make fresh new connections or repairs. A final note, a couple of years ago, I had a client who confused dielectric grease with conductive grease. I explained the difference as I was installing his brand new chart plotter. BillBill Bishop - Parmainhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11554223870035485145noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7834826019588534175.post-34710294759093452812013-09-03T23:26:05.687-04:002013-09-03T23:26:05.687-04:00What's your opinion of packing all exposed mar...What's your opinion of packing all exposed marine connectors with silicone dielectric grease? And even wrapping them with 3M rubber self-vulcanizing tape, like their Temflex #2155 after doing so?<br /><br />PL259s on VHFs are especially vulnerable, since they have no o-rings, but I suspect lots of connectors for radars leak salt water, too, without additional protection....<br /><br />The cable, cell, and ISP industry is anal about using Temflex on tower connectors, because who wants to climb? They also use stainless cable ties, rather than plastic, again, because who wants to climb?<br /><br />Thoughts?Karl in NYhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02233082722631532086noreply@blogger.com